Rocamora, A. (2012).
Hypertextuality and Remediation in the Fashion Media. Journalism Practice, 6(1), 92-106. doi:
10.1080/17512786.2011.622914
The author of this article, Agnes Rocamora, is a Senior Lecturer
in Cultural and Historical Studies and a Senior Research Fellow at the London
College of Fashion, University of the Arts. She has written many other journal
articles and was a contributor to two fashion books. This academic and
practical experience, along with the extensive use of sources throughout the
article demonstrate that she is in a position to comment and pass judgement on
issues that come under her expertise and that she has found many examples to
corroborate her view. The article itself discusses the fashion blogosphere and
its impacts on old media, whilst also investigating how traditional media is
affecting this new form of fashion journalism. Two particular aspects are
examined, hypertextualisation and remediation. She discovered that the rise of
blogs has caused fashion magazines (traditional media) to include pieces of
journalism that seem highly blog-influenced and, that blogs themselves have
risen in popularity due to the idea of the ‘semantic’ web, with users having a
great degree of control when searching through posts. The only point lacking in
this article is that ‘traditional fashion media’ are discussed only as fashion
magazines and as text; no strong mention of photography/illustration can be
found. Overall, the discoveries discussed in this article (hypertextualisation
and remediation) can be seen, to a certain extent, in the following three news
media pieces.
Weiss, P. (2012). Vogue Bans Underage Models, Calls for Healthy Fashion Reform. At Last. Retrieved from http://shine.yahoo.com/fashion/vogue-bans-underage-models-calls-healthy-fashion-reform-235800554.html
This online article discusses Vogue’s decision to stop using models under the age of 16 and those who appear to have an eating disorder. The beginning of this piece seems extremely biased towards Vogue, focussing strongly on quotes from Vogue magazine themself. Towards the end of the article however, there are some questions raised as to whether Vogue will actually commit to their stated goals, and there is a small amount of criticism of the magazine. These negative comments seem weak compared to the heavy praise contained at the start of the piece. There is reference to the fact that Anna Wintour’s biggest competitor is now a blogger by the name of Tavi. This is strongly in line with Agnes Rocamora’s piece on the fashion blogosphere. Weiss hints that the statement about models by Vogue is a strategy to gain more readers and perhaps gain an advantage over bloggers. The author is an editor of Yahoo! Shine, and is heavily involved in fashion writing and photography which would lend her to be quite informed on fashion issues. Yahoo, however, is a commercial form of media and scattered throughout the page and in the story itself are links to other stories that are only loosely related to the main point. This may frustrate readers and it seems like a deliberate attempt to make readers more exposed to advertisements. This causes a lack of credibility to the site.
Landers, K. & Voloder,
D. (Presenters), & Clements, K. (Interviewee). (2012, May 4). Vogue decides to ban underage and skinny
models [Audio Podcast]. Retrieved from http://www.abc.net.au/worldtoday/content/2012/s3495563.htm
This source is in the simple form of a radio
interview (archived as a podcast) and in contrast to the Yahoo! Shine piece,
there is heavy questioning on Vogue from
the beginning. Similar points are discussed in this piece, such as the timing
of the decision and the questioning of how it will be policed, but the ABC
version seems to address them in much more substance. The ABC is generally held
in high rapport with the public and they are trusted to deliver news that is
factual and truthful, which they seem to have done by going direct to an
Australian source on the issue. Although they questioned Clements quite
thoroughly, there can be no guarantees to the truth of her statements and it
would be a stronger piece overall if the presenter did more research on the
topic or interviewed an opposing source in addition to the Australian Vogue editor. This would have given a
wider view on the topic. It was aired on the ABC radio show The World Today which prides itself on
analysing, interpreting and encouraging debate on events and issues that are
important to Australians. This is a respected news program and Australians
would, due to historical reputation, place more faith in this source than in
Yahoo! Shine.
Next Media Animation.
(2012, May 7). Vogue: Underweight Models
Need Not Apply [Video]. Retrieved
from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KM_BuuGSnE
This
video provides an extremely crude angle to the story and it should not be
considered a credible news piece. To begin with, they provide only one source
to back up their story, which was the press release itself. There is nothing to
back up other claims stated throughout the video, unlike the two previous
reports on the topic. They do question Vogue’s
ability to police the topic and comment on the history of the industry but
the hosts, who go by the names of Jen-Jen and Vanessa, have no credentials and
their only aims for news-reporting are that it is ‘sexy, eye-popping and fun’.
This would leave the viewer to be extremely critical of whatever they hear from
this source. In contrast to the previous two sources, visuals are included in
this medium. However, this only detracts even more credibility from the news
piece; it is animated and grossly exaggerated in order to shock the audience.
The author’s heavy bias is displayed in the visual content. An example of this
is: when underweight models are not being used, the only alternative appears to
be plus size models that are deemed by the authors to be ‘wide-loads’.
Hopefully traditional fashion media will not follow Rocamora’s prediction of
remediation with Next Media Animation
in mind.